Finally, a new post for our blog. It's hard to believe that it's been nearly 2 months since we took our big summer trip to Ireland and Northern Ireland. I'd like to explain our tardiness in putting up a new post by saying that a week after we got back to Casablanca our computer broke. Over a month later (which included trips to black market repair shops) we ended up having to buy a brand new one - complete with English/Arabic keyboard. It's events like that where you really miss living in the US where you speak the language and know where to go and what to expect.
Now on to our Irish vacation.
In May, we celebrated our 10 year anniversary! Of course such a momentous event required a momentous trip. There were so many options that we discussed, but in the end we chose Ireland because we wanted go somewhere with lots of scenic greenery and where we could also speak the language. Ireland offered both and it did not disappoint. When we talk to family and friends about the trip one thing we keep coming back to is how much it exceeded our expectations. We knew Ireland would be beautiful and amazing, but of course that is how people describe it. But being there transcends every cliche, every picture and every description you've ever heard. It's truly a magical place.
As so much time has passed and in an effort to keep this as brief as possible (which isn't possible) we're simply going to note the highlights of each day. We hope you enjoy the photos. Click on the dates to see all the photos from each day.
June 16
Departed Casablanca and flew to London. Stayed the night at Premier Inn Bath Road right outside of Heathrow as our flight to Belfast was early the next morning.
Headed back to Heathrow. One hour flight to Belfast, Northern Ireland where we landed at George Best Belfast City Airport - wish all airports were that size and that nice. Picked up our rental car and started driving south to Ireland. Driving was terrifying as it is reversed from what we're used to (the steering wheel is on the right and you drive on the left). It's an open border so we only knew we were in Ireland when signs switched from just English to Gaelic followed by English and from miles to kilometers. Skirted Dublin and headed east to Limerick. Checked in to the Woodfield House Hotel where we stayed for two nights and then went to the adjoining pub for bangers & mash and a pint.
June 18
The day started out rather wet, but we headed out to Bunratty Castle outside of Limerick. The castle itself was really old and very interesting. When you pay at the gate you're paying not only for the castle, but for the folkpark as well. When we finished the castle we then dove headfirst into the folkpark. For those of you from Indiana, think Conner Prairie but with an Irish twist. There were cottages, houses, churches, animals, kiddie play forts and slides (which we definitely used) as well as lots of other stuff. A lot of the historic buildings were actually real, but had been moved there from surrounding counties. After Bunratty it was off to McDonald's for lunch and then to downtown Limerick. Most things were closed by that time and it was starting to rain, but it was fun to walk around the area and see King John's Castle and the River Shannon. Then it was back to the hotel for a pint before curling up with some Irish television.
June 19
We woke up, had a delicious Irish breakfast and then set off north and then quickly turned west. As we drove we took in the beautiful scenery all around us. After a while we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher. Breathtaking! Walking up to it you're just taken away by the size of it. Though right behind you are rolling meadows, straight ahead are cliffs dropping hundreds of feet to the ocean. And it went on forever. Becky and I started hiking on the south, but after an hour were only halfway to the point at the end. We then turned back and explored the north side, climbing O'Brien's Tower, before heading off. We then drove through The Burren - an area of land where the soil has eroded away exposing the rock layer below. With a little luck we found the Portal Tomb which was erected of 4,000 years ago. We then drove northeast to Galway and then west into Connemara where we would be spending the next 10 nights!
June 20
Today was a quiet and relaxing day. We woke up, had a delicious breakfast and drove the 30-40 drive to Clifden, the 'big' city of Connemara with a population of under 5,000. We walked around the picturesque town, visited the two main churches that dominate the skyline, had lunch at a pub and then headed back. On our way home we stopped by the memorial to Alcock and Brown - the first people to fly across the Atlantic. You always hear about Lindbergh because he was the first to fly it solo, but these guys did it first. We then drove back a different way passing Roundstone before returning to the B&B where we took a nice quiet walk to end the day.
June 21
After breakfast we went north through the Inagh Valley and then turned west to Kylemore Abbey. Initially a castle built at the end of the 19th century, it was sold to a group of nuns in the early 20th century and turned into an abbey. The little chapel near the abbey was built by the original owner as a monument and burial site for his wife who died tragically in 1875. Even though it was pouring rain, we took our time. The castle, chapel, grounds and gardens were gorgeous. We then went back to Rossroe for another quiet walk.
June 22
Cashel Hill Day! From the moment we arrived at Rossroe we had noticed Cashel Hill standing above the houses and church of Cashel to the north. When Mary and Sylvan (owners of our B&B) told us that we could climb it we were so excited. We parked at the church and trekked up the road. Along the way we met an old farmer who offered us a shortcut through his farm to start our hike. He walked us through his farm and closing the gate behind us wished us well. Then off we went. Our time spent on Cashel Hill was so amazing.
After Cashel Hill we drove into Roundstone for lunch at Eldon's after which we explored the town and then headed back.
June 23
One of the quietest day on our vacation. It rained most of the day, but undaunted we set off for Clifden and then went to the Sky Road to the east of town. The road winds up a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic providing magnificent views of the surrounding countryside and ocean. We also saw some wild pheasants roaming around. On our way back we stopped for lunch at O'Dowd's in Roundstone and then went back to relax and read. Later that evening, we decided to attend Mass at the Cashel Church. The service took place on Saturday night because the priest is responsible for a wide area and Sunday morning he conducts Mass in Roundstone. At the service we found out that it Bonfire Night, a night celebrating the birth of St. John the Baptist, Jesus being the light of the world and St. Patrick's lighting of the first pastoral fire in Ireland. As we drove home we could see bonfires dotting the night sky. When we got back to our B&B, our hosts were gracious enough to allow us to join their bonfire where we met extended family and tossed furniture and tires onto the blaze. One of the most memorable nights of our vacation.
June 24
Today was our beach day. We drove out past Roundstone to Dogs Bay. White sandy beaches don't usually come to mind when you think of Ireland, so Dogs Bay was a wonderful surprise. It was so beautiful. The cold water. The white sands. And then looking up were the hills and fields and fences of Ireland. Amazing! We walked along the beach and then roamed over into an adjoining field where we came across a hidden little beach tucked away from sight. Our secret beach. We waded around and then played some catch before heading back. We stopped back into Roundstone for lunch at O'Dowd's and then walked the town some more. On the west side of town the Roundstone Farmers' Market was going on so we walked past the stalls and I got Becky a locally made porcelain sugar bowl as a surprise. After stopping by the B&B we just took a long drive around Connemara ending at the Connemara National Park.
June 25
Aran Islands Day. We got up early, had breakfast and then drove to Rossaveal to catch the ferry to Inishmore - the largest of the three islands. Upon arriving we made a dreadful mistake and chose to rent bikes instead of taking one of the local horse-drawn carriages. It looks like a flat island, but it isn't. And there's a lot of gravel too. Heed our warning! Don't rent bikes on the Aran Islands! We did have a good time though and enjoyed the old churches, the seal colony and the old fort of Dun Aengus that was built over 4,000 years ago. When we got back to Kilronan, the island port town, we turned in the bikes and went to Supermac's. Mmm-Mmm! While waiting for the last ferry of the day we walked around the shops and got ourselves some Connemara wool socks. Then it was back to Rossaveal and back to Rossroe.
June 26
Another quiet day. We had breakfast and then hung out at the B&B. When the postwoman arrived we mailed our postcards and then went back to reading and relaxing. Apart from a dewy walk in the evening, complete with an attempt to help stop a bad cow who had run away from the herd, the only other time we ventured out was when we went to O'Dowd's for lunch.
June 27
In our first days at Rossroe our hosts had told us about Omey Island. It's an island on the northwest part of Connemara that is cut off from the mainland at high tide. But when the tide recedes you can walk or drive across the packed sand to the island road. We arrived a little early (my fault) and passed the time with a drive around the area. When we returned the tide was out and walked across to Omey. We strolled along the road for awhile before heading back. On our way home we drove around taking in the sights.
June 28
Our last day in Connemara. We took several drives around the countryside, taking in the sights, sounds and smells one last time. We finally stopped by Recess to visit the shops there as well as the Connemara Giant - a cement statue built in the late 90's and humorously touted as a must see. What a wonderful tourist trap it was. We then stopped by Johny O'Loughlin's Bar one last time, having visited it on several other occasions. We ended the day with a delicious home-cooked meal by Sylvan. We then took a walk to close out our wonderful time in Connemara.
June 29
What a day! We woke, said good-bye to our hosts, Rossroe and Connemara and started the long drive to Belfast. Along the way we took the sites, the fjord of Killery, the small towns along the way and lunch at a little roadside store. Before Belfast we had one more stop further to the north - Giant's Causeway. We were a little surprised to find out how small it was, but all the same it was a wondrous sight. Unfortunately, with the rental car due back we had to make it a quick stop before hustling southeast to Belfast. After turning in the car we had planned on spending the night at the airport, but on learning that it closed and with the kind help of the man at the travel help desk we booked a room, took a cab to our hotel (another wonderful Premier Inn), had a great dinner at the restaurant and then walked around the Titanic District where we were staying. We found it a little disconcerting that Belfast was making a concerted effort to remind people that they build a boat that sunk on its first voyage.
June 30
Traveling home. We got to the airport early like normal, hung out for a bit and then boarded our first flight to London. It London we had a three hour layover and then boarded our Casablanca flight. On arrival we were met by our friend Richard who had kindly offered to pick us up. We arrived at our apartment tired and happy with memories to last a lifetime.
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