shoes, go on and carry me there

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. We are sharing the undertaking of this significant blog post. I will be writing in italics, and Andy will not be. This post is as much for us as for you, as we are documenting our amazing trip to the magnificent city of Paris. 

We spent 10 magical days in Paris from December 23 to January 2.  During that time we saw and experienced so much that it would be impossible for us to write it all down.  And even though we took over 750 pictures*, those only hint at all we saw.  So for brevity's sake we're going to just go day by day and give you the highlights.  To see pictures from each day just click on the date.  Enjoy!

 * I took approximately 11 pictures to Andy's 756.


December 23, 2011 

Our plane was scheduled to leave Casablanca at 4, but we were delayed for half an hour. We left around 4:40 and had about a 2.5 hour flight to Charles De Gaulle Airport in Paris. Most of you know that I am terrified of flying, but did you know that Air France gives out free wine? Your own bottle too! After 2 Xanax and my own mini bottle of wine, I was a suitable travel companion.

Upon our arrival we went through customs and were picked up by our shuttle service (one of Becky's many smart trip ideas and the only way to travel to and from CDG) and headed to our hotel.  When we arrived at Jardins de Paris Montmartre we checked in to our wonderfully cozy and tiny room and then headed out for dinner and a walk around our Montmartre neighborhood.  For dinner we stumbled upon what became our favorite restaurant - Sfera.  Never have we tasted such delicious onion soup.  And the over the top Italian ambiance, complete with red and white leather padded walls, was superb.  We also had the nicest waiter in Paris who got to know us over the next 10 days.  

We finished our evening with a walk up the Montmartre Hill stairs to Sacré Cœur which became a much loved and looked for landmark.

December 24, 2011 *click on the date to see pictures

We began this day with breakfast at our hotel, and then a walk around the neighborhood. We discovered several cafes, markets, and shops. We also walked around a beautiful little park. We then bought lunch for the next day as we were worried that stores and restaurants would be closed. On the way back we also picked up some holly to decorate our room. We left the hotel again to brave the Paris Metro for the first time. We received a wonderful tutorial from our hotel receptionist, and then two hicks (as we were referred to by one of our more seasoned co-workers) from Indiana set out to master the massive public transportation maze that is the Metro*. 

* to see a map of the Paris Metro click here.

 
Hopping the Metro at the Jules Joffrin station we headed down to Concorde where we arrived without any problems.  We then climbed the stairs of the station and upon exiting were greeted by the breathtaking sites as seen from Place de la Concorde - including the Paris Ferris wheel that is only there during the Christmas season!  We had to ride it right away.  And it was wonderful.  As we slowly rotated, and then stopped at the very top, we saw all of Paris before us.  All the sites that we hoped to see and visit during our stay.  It was an absolutely wonderful introduction.  Getting off the Ferris wheel we headed to our tour meeting point near The Louvre by walking through the Tuileries Gardens which, even in winter, are amazing.  Arriving at the tour station early I stood in line so we'd get the front seats on the bus while Becky went into a nearby shop and purchased what has become a cherished memento - a Christmas ornament of Paris.  

We then hopped on our tour bus and headed south-east out of Paris to the Vaux le Vicomte - an absolutely breathtaking château built in the mid 17th century.  It was so fun to walk through the building as it was all decorated for Christmas, but the real joy was to walk outside and stroll through the gardens.  There was a haunting quality to them as so much of the sculpture and stonework was deteriorating.  We left happy and peaceful.

We went back to the hotel, changed clothes, and then climbed up the Montmartre stairs to have Christmas Eve dinner at Au Clarion des Chasseurs. This was a nice restaurant that had live music and lovely Christmas decorations. After dinner (some French specialties) and dessert we went to Sacré Cœur to spend the rest of our Christmas Eve. Our evening started with an organ concert, a Christmas vigil, and then Midnight Mass. It was an indescribable experience to hear the organ music fill that beautiful church. We sat with over a thousand people, all of us in awe of our surroundings. It was a very special night that we are so grateful for.



December 25, 2011*click on the date to see pictures

 

As we had a full day planned for Christmas we decided to sleep in a few hours before starting off.  One of the first sounds we heard as we woke up was the tolling of the bells at Sacré Cœur.  After getting around we headed off for a leisurely stroll (death march) through the city.  We headed east from our hotel to the Bassin de la Villette canals and then turned south and walked along both the Bassin and the Canal St. Martin.  It was a tiring, but enjoyable walk and it was fun to see parts of Paris outside the normal tourist loop even if certain areas were in need of some urban reclamation.

  

Back at the hotel we had a delicious little lunch of bread, cheese, olives and wine before taking a quick nap and then jumping back on the Metro to Concorde where we once again walked to the tour agency to await our Christmas Day tour (I once again stood in line to make sure we got good seats).  At the appointed time we set off for an hour long Illuminations bus tour of Paris.  It was so wonderful to not only see all the places we wished to visit, and a few we didn't even know about, but to see them all lit up and decorated for Christmas.  When the tour was over we pulled up at a River Seine dock near the Eiffel Tower and boarded our Bateaux Parisiens tour boat.  We then took an amazing hour long tour up and down the Seine learning about the history of the bridges and buildings we passed.  Absolutely magical.  And after all that the night still wasn't over for we then boarded the bus again and were taken to Chez Clément on the Champs Elysees for an absolutely delicious dinner.  When dinner was over we walked up Champs Elysees to our Metro station and headed home feeling very merry indeed!

December 26, 2011*click on the date to see pictures

 

Before heading to Paris we each picked one thing that we HAD to do while we were in Paris.  Mine was to go up the Eiffel Tower.  As we didn't want to spend half a day in line we woke up early, picked up breakfast at a bakery on the way to the Metro station and headed out.  We got off at the Passy station and walked up along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower!  As it was early we stood in line for less than half an hour before we got to head up.  Getting off at the second platform we made our way over to the elevator to the very top.  As we began to climb I quietly held Becky's hand as I knew the trip up was making her nervous.  However, as the ascent was never-ending I soon began to find myself rather uneasy too and had to pretend to be brave.  However, the ride up was well worth it as we were rewarded with a spectacular view of Paris.  It is so amazing to think that this was built back in the 1880s as it still takes one's breath away.  Heading back down to the second platform we looked around and then decided to walk the rest of the way down which was an enjoyable little adventure.  We then got ourselves some vin chaud (hot wine) and walked around Trocadero and the Passy cemetery before jumping on the Metro to the Arc de Triomphe.  

 

I would like to mention that Paris is a city for walking. Every attraction we went to seemed like another opportunity to pay to walk up endless flights of stairs. I started to feel guilty when I had to walk up sets of stairs without paying. That being said the the top of the Arc de Triomphe was worth the climb. It was another stunning view of Paris.  After that it was back to the hotel for a much needed nap.

We left the hotel refreshed, and it was a good thing to, because I am confident that we looked good for our surprise role in a Japanese commercial. We unknowingly walked through the set as they were filming. So look for us walking behind a telephone booth with a crying woman in it. We then took the metro to Galleries Lafayette to check out their Christmas decorations and window displays. We also enjoyed the architecture of the Paris Opera. Beautiful! Then we went back to our neighborhood for another dinner at Sfera. We enjoyed the world's best onion soup and tried their pizza, which now has the distinction of being my favorite pizza ever. After dinner we stopped at a grocery store and discovered another French treat. Lu cookies, pure deliciousness.

December 27, 2011*click on the date to see pictures

 

This was Versailles Day. Every summer, when I would visit my Grandmother Philippsen, I would spend hours looking at the pictures in her Versailles book. I would imagine what it would be like to walk through the gardens, and pick out my bedroom in the palace. As my brothers and sister got older, they began to enjoy the book too. They started to pick bedrooms, and we started to argue over who got what, as we divided the palace amongst ourselves. The book now has little slips of paper in it marking bedrooms and rooms that each of us claimed. That being said, going to Versailles was quite an experience. It was funny because though the opulence I enjoyed as a child was still beautiful, I enjoyed the quiet parts of the gardens the most. Our favorite part about our trip was the area known as the Queen's Hamlet. The Hamlet is a group of buildings modeled after a peasant village. Marie Antoinette had it built as an escape for her family from the complexities of royal life. It truly was a beautiful area. I am so glad that I have seen Versailles, and I am especially glad that I got to see it with Andy. Also, Sean, the gold, white, and red bedroom is officially mine. Me being there claims it for me permanently. 

December 28, 2011*click on the date to see pictures

Sweet sleep.  After several busy days we decided to have a quiet day.  After sleeping in we got breakfast at Le 1885 across the street which became our bakery during our vacation.  We could go on and on about all the delicious stuff we got there, but we won't.  We hopped on the Metro (with our 5 day passes which were lifesavers) and headed back to Galeries Lafayette to do a little shopping.  When we finished up there we walked through what we ended up calling the Shih-Tzu district (because we saw several shih-tzu's) and stopped at St. Trinité.  After a quieting walk through the church we headed off to get some lunch at a restaurant we'd passed in our shuttle when we arrived - Indiana Cafe.  We took a table in the enclosed patio and watched the sites and sounds of Paris while we ate our Indiana Chimichanga and America Burger.  Satiated, we hopped on the Metro to the Abbesses station and trudged up its never-ending staircase which comes out near the top of Montmartre Hill. 

Here we visited another church - Saint Jean de Montmartre.  A more modern church than most of the others we visited, it was built in the late 19th century.  From here we walked through the streets and stopped off at a little cafe for chocolat viennois and cappucino.  Our waiter here was hilarious as he was a rather surly and snobbish kid (though it's a common French stereotype we encountered it rarely).  We then walked around the base of Sacré Cœur and climbed the stairs to the top.  Up top we walked by the many Christmas stalls and purchased some lovely fig soap.  On our way back to the hotel we stopped off at Le 1885 for dessert.  Yum.

December 29, 2011*click on the date to see pictures

Today was a big day.  Breakfast at our bakery and then off to view Notre Dame.  We were mesmerized by the Gothic architecture and the beautiful stained glass.  We also went in the Sacristy which had many relics and interesting historical objects.  After visiting the cathedral we sat by the River Seine and enjoyed a snack we had purchased from our bakery.  We then went to the crypt located in front of Notre Dame.  The crypt was fascinating as it shows the layers of civilization under Paris.  

It was then off to St. Chapelle or so we thought.  When we arrived the line was so long that we opted to return the next day and we set out from the Ile de la Cité to the Left Bank.  We walked along the green stalls next to the river for a bit, looking at all the books and odds and ends for sale.  We then stopped by the Fontaine St. Michel before heading to the Cafe de Flor where Jean-Paul Sartre gave birth to the Existential movement.  Going here was a bit of intellectual snobbery on my part and I received my payment in full.  It appears that the cafe prospers off this notoriety and not its service as we were there for nearly half an hour and all we got from the waiter was a menu.

Leaving this elitist establishment behind, we then visited two absolutely beautiful churches - St. Germain des Prés and St. Sulpice.  

We then jumped on the Metro and headed back to our neighborhood.  On our last line we had the pleasure of meeting a little dog on the Metro who we have given the name Spots.  He was a precious little puppy and though missing part of his top jaw he was as cute and pleasant as could be and you could tell he was greatly loved and cared for.  We then enjoyed Sfera for the last time on our vacation - savoring with relish the onion soup and the entire meal as well.

December 30, 2011*click on the date to see pictures

We had another early morning. We were up in time to see the sunrise at Notre Dame. We got to Notre Dame early because the plan was to be some of the first in line to climb the tower. We did not realize that the towers opened at 10:00. We got to Notre Dame right at 8:00. We enjoyed the peacefulness of the early morning as we marveled at the cathedral and the beautiful Christmas tree in front of it. We then went to a cafe and enjoyed coffee, hot chocolate and croissants. We even dipped our croissants in hot chocolate like the French. 

Around 8:30 we joined the already forming line to climb the tower. At 10:00 the line was huge and we were so glad to be there early. To get to the top of the tower you must climb over 400 stairs. It was a narrow and steep spiral staircase, but the view was worth it. We also got to see the biggest and oldest bell.

We then went to St. Chapelle. What a beautiful place. The stained glass literally colors the air, and you feel encased in color. What an experience. We just stood and stared. The stained glass portrays certain books of the Bible, and it was fascinating to find a pane that showed a story that was instantly recognizable.  

We then went to lunch at L' Annexe. It was a very pleasant dining experience. The cafe had wonderful food, and it was attended by only 2 waiters. These guys were incredible. The place was packed, but they were incredibly friendly and fast. I also has the best Chocolate Viennois ever. Chocolate Viennois is shavings of dark chocolate topped with hot milk and whipped cream. When you get your cup, you stir it up and enjoy.

 

 

After L' Annexe it was off to explore the Latin Quarter.  Our first stop was the beautiful garden in front of St. Julien le Pauvre.  After that we headed around to the front of the church and stepped inside.  It was marvelous.  Unlike all the other churches we visited, St. Julien was so small.  It gave such a feeling of intimacy.  It was also so interesting to learn that though the current church was rather new (built in the 13th century) there are parts of the structure that date back from churches built on the site in the 5th century.  We then headed south and visited St. Séverin (13th century) and the surrounding neighborhood.  St. Séverin was a very unique church, nearly as wide as it was long, the church contained stained glass from many different periods - the 13th, 19th and even 20th centuries.

Further to the south we passed by the Sorbonne and then headed east to The Pantheon.  Though an impressive structure, where many famous French citizens are interred, Becky and I both felt the building to be a little unrefined and lacking the appeal of most Parisian structures.  We then headed to the church on the north-east corner of The Pantheon which was our destination in the first place - St. Etienne du Mont.  

 We were especially excited to see St. Etienne because it contains the shrine and bier of St. Geneviève. When we arrived in Paris we almost immediately started seeing references to St. Geneviève. She is the Patron Saint of Paris, and her story is a major part of the history of the city. St. Etienne is an especially beautiful church with an intricate stone rood-screen. There was also some gorgeous stained glass dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. 

We left feeling very peaceful. We took the Metro home and grabbed dinner at the grocery store. It was a quiet ending to a fulfilling day.


December 31, 2011*click on the date to see pictures

After another delicious breakfast from Le 1885 we headed to the south and the Paris catacombs.  However, as the line seemed endless we happily headed off to our second destination of the day - the Luxembourg Gardens.  The second largest public park in Paris, the Luxembourg Gardens were commissioned by Marie de Medici in the early 17th century.  Most of the statuary around the garden were figures of famous women in French history.  And then the Medici fountain - so imposing and powerful.  Even though it sprinkled on and off while we were there we were content to get a little wet in order to view all the garden had to offer.

 Leaving St. Séverin the previous day we'd passed so many restaurants advertising delicious and reasonably priced food (reasonably priced for Paris) that we'd decided to return the following day for lunch.  So after the gardens we jumped on a Metro and headed for St. Séverin and then walked down the side street to Le Marathon where we enjoyed yet another delicious Parisian meal.  After lunch we walked by the ruins of a Roman bath house and headed north to the Seine.  Leaving the upper level, we descended down to the riverside and walked next to the river for a block, stopping at the end under a bridge to dip our hands into the Seine.  How fun to have actually touched such a famous river. 

On the way home we grabbed dinner at the grocery store and then took a nap. We woke up and hung out until it was time to go to the New Year's festivities around the Eiffel Tower. It was a crazy metro experience. There was barely any room in the cars, and people were already in a festive mood. We were so happy to reach Trocadero (our stop) and get off the Metro. What a gathering around the Eiffel Tower. So many people from all over the world. It was quite an experience. We watched the Seine and enjoyed counting the minutes until midnight. As midnight approached we moved to a quieter spot to watch the Eiffel Tower light up to signify the new year. It lights ups on every hour, but it was especially special to hear the cheers of the crowd as we entered 2012.

The Metro ride home proved that we had mastered Paris public transportation. We picked a station that was somewhat off the beaten path and then went the opposite direction of most people to a station that was on our direct line to our hotel. Once at our hotel we opened our champagne and toasted each other and the new year.

January 1, 2012*click on the date to see pictures

We started 2012 by sleeping in and then going to McDonald's, yes McDonald's. We really should feel more sheepish about that than we do, but it was wonderful. After McDonald's, yes McDonald's, we bought a beautiful painting of the Montmartre area by a local artist. We had seen her work earlier in the week and had hoped to find her again. We then spent a peaceful and magical afternoon walking through The Tuileries. As we walked we noticed a cart carrying wooden sailboats. We followed the man and his cart to a fountain in the middle of the park where we sailed one of those magical boats. Time seemed to stand still and I was only aware of Andy, myself, and our little boat. It was probably my favorite part of our trip.

I too treasure that magical reprieve from the world around us more than almost any part of our trip.  

 Upon returning our boat to the gentleman he told us that both he and the boats wished us a long and happy journey for the future.  Quite a blessing to receive.  We were both touched and honored.  

We then took the Concorde Metro one last time to the Abbesses stop where we walked to the foot of Montmartre Hill and then took the tram up to the top and Sacré Cœur.  After taking in the city and the basilica one last time we journeyed back to our hotel where we ate dinner from our bakery for the last time, looked through all our pictures and then began the melancholy task of packing.  Before going to bed we went out for one last walk around the neighborhood, stopping along the way at Notre Dame de Clignancourt - the small church in front of the Jules Joffrin stop that we had seen every day.  As the Sunday evening mass let out we stepped inside to see one last church, thankful and appreciative of all we'd seen and done on this magnificent vacation.